Two weeks was simultaneously not enough and plenty time for my first real adventure into Asia.

A Guide to Tokyo

Trying to write about Tokyo as a whole would be trying to write about NYC as a monolith. It’s vast, it’s unique, and it’s a treat. I certainly got the chance to see much, but nowhere near to everything.

My first lodging was at Tokyo Guest House toco. It’s absolutely a place I would recommend to anyone looking for a hostel experience. Located near Ueno Park and Iriya Station, getting around was no hassle.

Some places near the area that I got the chance to check out (and maybe you should too!)

Kappabashi Kitchen Supply Town: Looking for high-quality kitchen knives? This is the place to be. I definitely stocked up, but don’t forget to check your luggage on the airplane if you purchase sharp objects.
Kotobuki Yu: This probably deserves its own post, as I have lots of thoughts on sentos (all positive!). Do your research on bathhouses before you visit if you’re unacquainted. This sento was really precious and affordable. An old lady laughed at me when I tried to enter a bath that was way too hot for me, and showed me a less-intense pool. Bring your yen, and a towel if you don’t want to rent one. The big win for me is that it was tattoo-friendly… not something all sentos allow!
Kimono Reborn Tokyo: Looking for unique souvenirs? This place rescues kimonos and gives them a second life as shirts, bags, shoes, and more. I got a coin purse there that will be my travel wallet going forward!

My second lodging was at WEBHOTEL TOKYO. It’s not a luxury spot by any means, but it’s near Asakusabashi Station and is a great value for the price. Plus, on-site laundry made my life so much easier. My strategies for packing light probably deserve a post of their own as well.

This place was a great launching point to explore more of the city. Some of the spots that were really special:

The Imperial Palace: It was really cool to see — kind of. Let me explain. Tours are free, but you have to have your passport on you, and visit on a specific time of specific days, which I did not do. You also only really get a view of the gardens, to my understanding. Which is cool, but might seem a bit of a let-down if you want to get up-close to the buildings. It is still fun to walk around from the outside, and I got a really cool double-exposure that might be my best photo of the trip. Just know what you’re getting yourself into!
Tokyo Tower: One of many broadcast towers you can access across the city. This one is right next door to Zojo-ji Temple, making it totally worth a dual trip. My advice — don’t pay for the highest tower, and opt for the lower deck instead. They have glass windows in the floor that lead to another really cool shot in my collection. The line to get up was less crowded as well! Fingers crossed that you get a glimpse of Fuji like I did.
Shinjuku Kitamura Camera: If you’re a photographer like myself, I can’t recommend this store more highly. My friend and I both made lens purchases here. The staff treated all the equipment with absolute grace and care. They also have same-day film development, which leaves me absolutely jealous. (Lets just say the options in my area are more limited.) I went back multiple times.
Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum:This is off the beaten path, so if architecture is not your vibe, pass on this one. I, however, had an absolute blast exploring the centuries of Japanese history preserved in a walk-able and accessible environment. They have a great cafe and museum store too.

A Guide to Kinosaki

As alluded to above, my options for onsens and sentos were more limited, as someone with ink. I really wanted to be able to have an authentic onsen town during my stay. Kinosaki got on my radar pretty early, as it’s a place that allows tattoos at all 7 of their public baths.

I should forewarn you that getting there is tricky. It’s an additional two hour train ride from Kyoto to get there. You will want to book your tickets, or at least figure out your route, before you get to the station. I winged it and somewhat regret that — or at least would do it differently next time.

Additionally, I changed my travel plans last-minute. My initial plan had been to visit Hakone, but my ryokan unexpectedly had plumbing issues, and had to cancel my reservation at the last minute. I took this as my sign to go to a place that I’d really wanted to visit from the start. This late change meant that many of the hotels in Kinosaki were already booked up.

I ended up staying at Guesthouse & Bar Hitotomaru in Takeno, which was an incredible place to stay that I will treasure forever. (Get the dinner set, I promise you!) However, it was an extra 10 minutes from Kinosaki by train, and the train only ran 1x per hour. Additionally the station in Takeno is not always staffed, and will only accept yen, no IC cards. Make sure you’re prepared. I didn’t mind, but you might.

Kinosaki itself is a dream. I had so much fun going from bathhouse to bathhouse while shopping for souvenirs and strolling a small town in the countryside. After a week of walking Tokyo non-stop, a day to refresh and take it easy was absolutely what I needed.

One of my favorite onsens was Goshonoyu — sitting outside in a hot bath on a crisp spring morning, watching a waterfall trickle down was nothing short of magical.

If onsens are your vibe, Kinosaki is the place for you.

A Guide to Miyajima

I did countless hours of research into Japan before I made the trip. I quickly realized there was no way I could do everything on my list. While Takayama and Shirakawa were high on my interest lists, I ulitmately opted to pass. Getting there would take more time than I wanted, and I was already venturing to a more rural area in Kinosaki.

I decided to stay fairly close to a Shinkansen line with my final destination. I chose Miyajima, home to the famous Itsukushima Shrine and Torii Gate on water.

It did not disappoint.

I got to witness a beautiful sunset the first night of my arrival. Getting to the island was actually very easy. It’s right outside of Hiroshima, with multiple ferry routes. To get there, I took a Shinkansen to Hiroshima, transferred to a local train, and then walked 5 minutes to the ferry terminal. It was extremely easy.

Miyajima is a vibe. I loved it there. Friendly deer roam the streets, looking for treats (don’t do it). Little streets are filled with souvenir shops and snack stands (get the Momiji manjū, it’s to die for.)

What else do you need to know, aside from visiting Itsukushima Shrine?

Daishoin: This may have been my favorite of all the Buddhist shrine I visited. Slowly climbing to the top of the temple provided gorgeous sights. The lantern-lit Henjo Cave is unique and peaceful.

Miyajima Ropeway: You can hike 2 hours to the top, or be like me and take the cable car to the top of Mt Misen. The view is incredible, but you’re not done there. It’s still a half hour hike to the summit, though the path is well-maintained and relatively easy (Depending on your fitness level). At the top is Reikado, a temple with a flame that’s been burning for 1200+ years. You can drink water that has been boiled using the flame. I hadn’t been planning on doing it, but a woman handed me a cup, and I figured if I went up all that way, I may as well partake!

My hotel was Miyajima Hotel Makoto, which I absolutely would recommend to anyone. My room came complete with tatami mats and a window overlooking the bay. I could see the Torii gate from my window. Even better, they had a sento and allowed me in with tattoos. I was the only one there on my first dip in — it was so nice to relax in warm water and silence.

Getting to Hiroshima

I don’t feel qualified to give a guide to the city as I only was there a short time. You can take a ferry directly from Miyajima to Peace Park in downtown Hiroshima. It’s a pleasant 45-minute trip. While there was a decent-sized group that disembarked my boat landing on Hiroshima, I was the only passenger to take the trip in the other direction.

During the ride, a video screen with English translations tell you about the different sights and islands you’re passing. The thing I may have enjoyed the most was feeding ravenous seagulls from the back of the ferry once we reached Hiroshima. The tour guide got a real kick out of it, laughing at the birds as they swarmed us.

Hiroshima is heavy. I could feel the energy in the air as soon as I saw the dome. It’s a solemn sight and a reminder of the horror of war. I’m glad to have gone, but I couldn’t stay long. Plus, I had a train to catch to Tokyo.

I was on the Shinkansen and back in Tokyo by dinner.

Would I recommend traveling to Japan?

Without a doubt, add this wonderful place to your bucket list. Bring me back some 7-Eleven Pancakes with Maple Syrup & Margarine if you’re going.

A journey through Japan in 35mm

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A journey through Japan in 35mm

Summer reflections

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