This isn’t a play-by-play of my adventures (two weeks of pure recap sounds tedious!) Rather, this is an exploration of my time in Peru via the great film photography I got along the way.

A Guide to Lima

While deep in internet research on Peru, I can’t say Lima struck me as a particularly crucial or important place where one needed to spend lots of time. I’m pleased to say that I was proven wrong! Lima was the most enjoyable city of my entire stay.

As an architecture enthusiast, Lima shattered my every expectation. You can find a charming colonial casita next to a brutalist apartment building next to a mid-century condo unit. It’s a joy to simply wander and observe.

Neighborhoods

Miraflores and Barranco are known as the “safer” areas for tourists in Lima. I never felt unsure of my surroundings. As a cis woman, there’s a certain vigilance and awareness one feels when alone in a new location. Thoughout my adventures I saw countless women walking alone in both these neighborhoods. There’s still rules of common sense (i.e. not wandering in dark / isolated places alone at night), but safety was never a concern.

I can’t speak to other neighborhoods in great detail. There was one day spent walking in Centro Histórico with a friend, and another that I spent in the San Isidro area, neither of which felt scary or uncomfortable. Use your common sense and you’ll be fine.

Getting around

Lima is extremely walk-able in Miraflores and Barranco. Ubers are dirt-cheap and easily accessible. Give yourself time if you’re looking to get somewhere far off, like the airport. It was easily an hour drive from Miraflores every time I needed to go.

Highlights in Lima

Go to the Museo del Convento de San Francisco y Catacumbas in Centro Histórico. I would have taken photos if they allowed. The place is fascinating, and not just because of the crypts are filled with hundreds of skeletal remains. There’s breathtaking architecture and history to be explored. You won’t regret the visit.
Without a doubt, AMANO (Museo Textil Precolombino) was the best of the museums I visited in all of Peru. The origins of the museum are fascinating in their own right. In the ‘50s and ‘60s, Japanese businessman Yoshitaro Amano spent time rescuing and preserving textiles from abandoned burial sites. His private collection ultimately became the museum that bears his name. Though textiles, you learn the history of the Chavín, Paracas, Nazca, Mochica, Huari, Sihuas, Lambayeque, Chimú, Chancay, Chuquibamba, and Inca cultures.
The detail and quality of work is astonishing. If you had only enough time for one museum in Lima, this is the one you should visit.
I make a point to visit antique and vintage shops wherever I can on my adventures. If you want to learn more about thrifting in Miraflores, check out my earlier post with tips and locations.
The best coffee I’ve ever had was in Miraflores. Be sure to stop in Amarena Bolognesi if you’re in the area.

A Guide to Cusco

One of my disappointments in Lima was not finding a real ‘shopping’ district. There’s the lovely Larcomar, but a mall wasn’t really what I was looking for. I wanted to find unique, artisan shops with hand-crafted goods.

If you’re in the same boat, Cusco is the place for you. There’s a wide variety of shops, from Patagonia to Columbia. There’s places with unique hand-made goods next door to spots with a wide variety of mass-produced tourist trinkets. It really depends on what you’re looking for, but I have no doubt you’ll find it.

Like many tourists, our time in Cusco was spent in the areas surrounding the Plaza de Armas. This is also a walkable neighborhood, though the hills are a constant reminder that you’re not in Lima anymore.

Adjusting to the altitude is real. The coca tea is delicious and helps you adjust, though nothing is better than time. Don’t rush yourself. The city itself is a wonderful place to explore.

Highlights in Cusco

If you want to visit Saqsaywaman, bring cash and start in the AM. The tickets are cash-only and valid for a single day. We hiked to the top of the hill only to discover we couldn’t get in, and we weren’t the only ones. We did make it to Cristo Blanco and still got some amazing views. Just be forewarned
Skip Museo Inka and go to AMANO in Lima instead. You’ll learn more there.
I got up at 6 am to explore the Plaza de Armas and found it calm and peaceful. It gets much busier as the day progresses.

A Guide to Exploring the Andes

Getting to Machu Picchu is a journey all in itself

Even if you don’t count the process of obtaining tickets, getting to the fabled Incan ruins is no joke. From what I can tell, not all that long ago, getting to the lost city required a multi-day hike on the Inca Trail. While there’s now much more infrastructure, the trek is not to be taken lightly.

I purposefully factored in extra time for the trip in both directions, which proved valuable. Getting to Machu Picchu from Cusco involves taking a bus to the town of Ollantaytambo, then catching a train to the tiny town of Aguas Calientes. It was about 4-5 hours all said and done. The bus was unremarkable, but the train was breathtaking! Get a train with windows in the roof.

We stayed the night in Aguas, then woke up at 5:45 am to catch a bus to Machu Picchu. I was flabbergasted to see a line 50-100 people long, even that early in the morning. Get there early. Despite the line, they’ve clearly perfected the art of shuttling folks from the base of the mountain to high up in the clouds. Busses run regularly, and we were only in line for 20 or so minutes.

The city itself is incredible. Early in the morning, there was a ton of fog and mist. At the very high point in the hike, there were probably ~100 people sitting around, waiting for the fog to clear on the “perfect view”. We waited for a bit, then moved along further down. Like magic, the fog melted before our eyes, and we could see the whole city.

I’m glad we didn’t wait with the huge crowds. We could look up and see a swarm of people above as we walked down into the city below.

It was a beautiful, incredible place.

After that, it was back to town to catch the transport back to Cusco. The train was about 1/2 hr late, but our bus waited for us and departed fairly quickly after arrival. Like I said, build in time for delays.

Highlights in the Andes

Alpaca steak tastes pretty good. Cuy does not taste good and ruined my appetite for an entire evening. Fair warning.
One of the absolute highlights of the Andes, and the entire trip as a whole, was taking PeruRail Titicaca. After several days of walking 10,000 feet above sea level, it was wonderful to take the time to relax on a train slowly winding through the Andes.
The experience was relaxing and indulging. The food was wonderful; the pisco sours were delicious; the sights unparalleled. There were rounds of live music and an open-air observation car that made the experience magical.
The one downside about this train is that it ends in Puno, of all places. More on that below.

We don’t talk about Puno

There’s a reason I didn’t take any film photography in Puno or Juliaca (the nearest city with an airport).

I’ll admit it, the vlogs and influencers got to my head. In the hours of Googling and researching this trip, there were dozens of travelers I found describing the wonder of Lake Titicaca.

After visiting myself, the only reason I would ever recommend stopping in Puno for transit. It’s a natural stopping point for back-packers making their way throughout the country. It is in no way a destination. I’m honestly surprised that a luxury train has a route that ends here.

The Uros Floating Islands are overrated. You’ll be pressured to spend soles on a ‘special’ boat ride and on needlework that is all identical to the last. The way the islands are crafted is interesting, but not worth a trip out of your way in Peru.

Puno is a place unto itself and definitely off the beaten path. Credit cards were not widely accepted and Ubers were not a thing. The food was unremarkable, to put it kindly. There was a gunshot outside of our Airbnb. Puno gave me anxiety.

I was glad to fly back to Lima for the remainder of my stay. If you’re thinking about adding a stop to your Peru expedition, go to Arequipa. I regret nothing about my trip, but if I ever return, I’ll be heading there instead, and Nazca.

Would I recommend traveling to Peru?

Yes, without a doubt. I have memories to last a lifetime. If you ever have the chance, I highly encourage you to visit this wonderful country.

A journey through Peru in 35mm

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A journey through Peru in 35mm

How to shop abroad without feeling like a tourist

How to shop vintage in Miraflores

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